• Photographer Craig McDean releases book of just three iconic models
• Images all shot between 1993 and 2005 on film in colour and black & white
  
• Eye bags, stained teeth and sun damage refreshingly there for all to see

By Deni Kirkova

PUBLISHED: 04:10 EST, 25 October 2013 | UPDATED: 05:54 EST, 25 October 2013

A new book documents the rise of the 1990s anti-supermodel though the lens of renowned fashion photographer Craig McDean.

Nick Knight's protégé and one of Vogue's top photographers dedicates his new tome exclusively to 150 pictures of Amber Valletta, Guinevere van Seenus, and Kate Moss.

The models' quirky features and waiflike frames contrasted with the Amazonian supers of the '80s and signified a new look for their age.

Amber, Guinevere and Kate together became the anti-supermodels that, along with grunge fashion, shifted the direction of culture on a global scale. 

McDean's work is often praised for its sophisticated edge and he has a sharp eye for striking detail and he is highly regarded in both the world of photography and that of fashion. He is also famous for his film and portraiture work.

He photographed the trio from the beginning of their careers, and even shot Kate's infamous Calvin Klein campaigns in the 1990s.

The pictures in his chronological volume were all shot on film between 1993 and 2005 in both colour and black and white.

Never before published photographs, outtakes from legendary shoots and contact sheets from this pre-digital golden period of fashion photography all feature.

The photographer's three favourite models are pictured, pores and all, often three-dimensional and unretouched.

In some  refreshing stills for Jil Sander, W fashion spreads and in Vogue Italia stories nothing is taken away including under-eye bags, skin texture, blemishes and coffee-stained teeth.

Sun damage on Moss' shoulders, Valletta's laughter lines and Van Seenus' neck rings are all there to see and prove surprising among the hyper-retouched fashion pictures that we're used to being fed.

Amber, Guinevere And Kate Photographed By Craig McDean features text by Mathias Augustyniak and interviews by Glenn O'Brien.

Mathias Augustyniak writes, in the introduction: 'Until recently the history of fashion has mostly been told by images produced with a photographic camera using film.

'In the context of this book it is important for the reader to understand that the process of making a fashion image that eventually becomes a photograph was an analogue process, as opposed to a digital one.'

The essay by Mathias Augustyniak of M/M (Paris) and interviews with McDean and the models by author and critic Glenn O'Brien add illuminating perspective to the photographs in the book.

McDean has captured the essence of an era that signalled an evolution in the parameters of beauty in the rarefied world of fashion and media. 

Amber, Guinevere And Kate Photographed By Craig McDean is published with text by Mathias Augustyniak and interviews by Glenn O'Brien by Rizzoli New York for £60.00.